Egypt 2010

Well, this is a summary report of my latest trip to Egypt. I have posted pics on Facebook, updates too, while I travelled (when possible and generally by cellphone), I have written another report for the travel agent in Portugal which was very kind to be interested in what had happened, and now I am writing about the 'egyptological' stuff.

I flew to Cairo and had to stay there for one night as we were departing to the desert the next day on a 4x4 vehicle (Toyota Land Cruiser, the best!). There is no point in repeting the details of my complaints in the hotel in Cairo (do not recommend the Mercure Le Sphinx), as I already did that to the agency. I can only mention that; giving a person the wrong time to have breakfast, when you hadn't dinner the night before does not turn me into Madre Teresa...

Day 2

Another thing I always have to worry about is buying an Egyptian card for my cellphone, to be able to call local numbers at a reduced rate. If not done and heading for the desert you might feel anxious; I do. I did not bring my laptop as I was afraid of the sand getting in...it was missed back in the boat and Cairo...

The Mount of Wishes has marine fossils and you have to make a wish. I did. Beware what you wish for, you might get it. Be prepared.

Bawiti, one of the five oasis in Baharyia has only one hotel, not very good also, as cables don't reach plugs, but, it was ok to sleep and have a diet dinner (leftovers, I think). Better than nothing. The guide wanted us to climb this rocky mountain, filled with ardosia bits that are so good to do skimming and fall on your ... hip bones...mine are already mended with a metal plaque, no, thank you. I watched the sunset from where I could climb to and it turned out to be an Agora version, very good!

The mummies in Baharyia Museum are all covered and the room does not seem to have proper conditions to house human remains. The light is dim but because it is bad, not to protect the artefacts...Humidity does not seem to be controlled as the doors are open, everything looks dirty and the museum does not have any kind of marketing tools (catalogue, leaflets)...no pics allowed...

The tomb of Bannentiu has extraordinary reliefs (Sekhmets there) and I started to take pics but was stopped after some taken. Mafeesh Muskila.

We crossed the black desert and the white one and slept under the stars, in a tent, which was a first for me, 42 years old so far, stunning pics taken, of course. Our driver/cook/handyman is a great guy and does it all; we have the back seat filled with semi-cooked food for lunches and dinner out at the camping site, we have bags of bananas, tomatos, bread, cans of tuna and sausages, lots of buffalo cheese, also sintetic food...the guide says it is for children...orange and chocolate cakes plus waffers...he is giving those to the army guys at the control stops too...

We left the White Desert and our camping to get on the road to the next oasis. Got stopped in the mud of a Nile canal before we could reach another site to visit, Deir el-Hagar which has the most magnificent relief of Min being offered his lettuces.

Then we head for our hotel, Desert Lodge, at Dakhla oasis, which I do recommend, and visited a World Heritage medieval islamic village Al-Qasr, just before sunset. The unusual sight here was one of the doors being built with pharaonic blocks (upside down) as they couldn't care less about hieroglyphic or any other pharaonic inscription...

Day 5

The guide insisted on crossing another muddy Nile canal just to see some pre-historical writing on a stone, eroded from time, and looking like a camel...well my snickers have to last, at least, until Aswan, so, no way, Jose...

I told him I prefer to visit the Kharga Museum (which was not in his/the agency program), but we went because I insisted and he needed time in the police to arrange the permits to cross to Luxor.

Do recommend this Museum but not buying the 'alleged' CD with all the catalogued pieces from Dr. Mahmoud, as mine contains 'non-readable files'...New Year flasks, mumies at the right conditions and what could be surgical instruments made my day!

Continuing our trip to Luxor (the bridge has to be crossed before 5pm) and checking into the cruise boat was tiring but the shower felt good and my hair looks like hair again!

A dear frind who lives in Luxor came to visit at the boat and we chatted about egyptological events, people and subjects to research that might not have been explored yet...

The Nile cruise had its usual visits; Luxor and Karnak temples, Edfu, Kom-Ombo, Aswan Nubian Museum, Philae and the Nubian village. Did not go the Valley of the Kings or Abu Simbel as we had to wake up vey early, I have been there, not seen all the tombs, of course, and Tutmosis III was open but it is a climb for me...Awesome pics..around 1500...for the whole trip.

At the Nubian Museum I had the privilege of meeting its Director and see the museum again, as I love its' collection.

Had to share this one as this poor one died from this massive bluntforce trauma (as it says on the label) but the bone seems remodeled...maybe he died from the internal brain hemorrhage...that yes, might have been the COD...
Flew to Cairo from Aswan and stayed at the same hotel, again, no point in describing our complaints, just to mention one, each time one of us took a shower we were endowed with a second pool in our own bathroom, besides the one the hotel already has...

Day 9

Giza shops. There is one shop just in front of the Sphinx gate which has always something for me...either a book (I bought one for another friend who is top researcher on AE astronomy), poster picture, postcards from the time where ink was short...a visit to the Egyptian Museum, met another friend, world known by her work with animal mummies, saw the Mummy Room (again)...Hatchepsut looks different...after so many scans...age does not forgive you...new linen...Hard Rock Cafe lunch...the manager is no longer my ex-manager from HR in Lisboa, back when I started my second life as an Egyptologist, managed to get (buy) a special pin...OSIRIS playing guitar!

The next day we went to Fayum and visited Karanis, Hawara and Lahun sites with another friend, Egyptologist and teacher at the Faculty of Tourism in the Fayum University. Went to have lunch at the University, to his office where he was so kind to let me check my email (a perk) and head back to Cairo.
Karanis has Ramesses II stuff (brought from another site of course)...and the oldest bathtub I've seen...

The next day, my AUC informal lecture for students of Egyptology about my current research on Osiris and medicinal plants, met more friends there, had two cheeseburguers and head on the Khan el-Khalili bazar. Shopping time! I had already bought some hibiscus flowers and bakhur at the Laid-Down-Obelisk stores, but now I bought more hibiscus (tea bags) and more bakhur. New pair of babooskas...and I believe that's all.

Day 12

Another important stop: The Agriculture Museum in Cairo. Heard they have a collection of mummified plant remains, what else can a girl wish for? And it was true. Light was dim, but I managed to take good pics.

Had another friend picking us up at the hotel and driving us around the Agriculture Museum the exquisite Gayer-Anderson House and the Ibn Yulun mosque, finishing by eating at sunset at the Al Azhar Park restaurant (lovely view, few food options).